
DISCLAIMER: The following information is intended to
offer general cleaning advice only. Always consult with your
professional carpet supplier for the manufacturer’s care instructions specific to your installation. CARPET CARE Here is some professional advice on care of commercial carpet . . . recommended minimum maintenance frequency
Light Traffic = Private Offices & Cubicles Medium Traffic = Shared Offices, Interior Hallways & Conference Rooms Heavy Traffic = Entrances, Elevators, Main Hallways, Break Rooms, Work/Copy Rooms
& Mailrooms Severe Conditions = Airports & Entries to Hospitals, Malls & Theaters *(Extra-Heavy Traffic &
Soiling Require Frequent Attention) What you can expect from your carpet
in the real world. Commercial
carpets are designed for specific applications to withstand the tremendous
beating that carpet receives in those recommended uses,
however, there are some conditions where
appearance change must be expected. For
instance, in areas where the oily
material from asphalt sealers is tracked into the building, carpet and
other flooring may become yellowed over time.
It is virtually impossible to remove all of this material once it has
penetrated the fiber of any carpet. Areas
where large amounts of sandy soil
enter the building may become dull in appearance over time, due to abrasion of
fibers. Walk-off mats, frequent
vacuuming and periodic cleaning can reduce these factors. Another
stubborn problem is the salt or deicer
from snow melt, which accumulates in the carpet over winter. Salt pulls moisture from the air and prevents
the carpet from drying as quickly as it normally would. Damp carpet acts like a wet sponge cleaning
shoes and collecting soil faster. The
resulting black discoloration in the traffic lanes requires pretreatment with a
traffic lane cleaner and the use of hot, not warm, water to dissolve and remove
salt and soil. reduction of soiling and removal of dry soil One of the
most critical aspects of maintenance is the use of walk-off mats at building entrances. Walk-off mats greatly reduce the amount of
soil carried into a building by foot traffic. Vacuuming is the most significant element in
the maintenance of carpet. Walking on soiled carpet permits the soil particles
to work their way down into the pile where they are more difficult to
remove. Frequent vacuuming removes soil
particles from the surface before this happens.
A good vacuum is vital to prolonging the life of
your carpet. A cheap vacuum can remove
surface dirt but may not effectively remove particles embedded in the
pile. This can lead to rapid appearance
loss and poor product performance. A
hundred dollars saved on the price of a vacuum can easily cost thousands of
dollars in reduced useful life of the carpet. Regular use
of a pile lifter can remove deeply
embedded dry sand and soil, help stand up the pile, and renew the appearance of
the carpet in high-traffic areas such as traffic funnel zones, elevators and
lobbies. A pile lifter is an upright,
two-motor vacuum with a large, adjustable, motor-driven brush, a high-suction
vacuum motor, and a sand trap. Using a pile lifter in traffic lanes just prior to cleaning removes
the deeply embedded soil and opens up the pile so the hot-water extraction can
be more effective. Follow the
pile lifting with a thorough vacuuming. spot and spill removal It is
desirable to plan ahead of time to have the materials needed for spot and stain
removal on hand in the event of an unplanned incident. General Instructions jScoop up any solids gently with a
spoon or dull knife. Absorb wet spills
as quickly as possible by blotting with white paper or cloth towels. jAlways blot; never scrub or rub
abrasively, because it may create a fuzzy area.
When blotting, work from the outer edge in toward the center of the spot
to avoid spreading the spill and enlarging the problem. jThorough removal of both the stain
material and the detergent residue is critical to prevent resoiling. Water extraction is the best way to accomplish
this. Many cleaning equipment
manufacturers offer small extraction machines specially designed for spot
cleaning. They do an excellent job of
rinsing after spot cleaning. jPlace several layers of white towels
on the spot to draw out any remaining moisture.
Weight them down with a heavy object that will not transfer color, such
as a plastic jug of water. STAIN REMOVAL RECOMMENDED PROCEDURES
BY STAIN TYPE *PRO—CONSULT PROFESSIONAL CLEANER
Removal Procedures (see preceding table of stains to which
these remedies apply) A.
WATER-SOLUBLE STAINS – Absorb as much as possible with white towels. Blot the affected area with more towels
dampened with cool water until no more color transfers to the towels. If any of the stain remains, use a detergent
solution of ½ teaspoon (no more) of CLEAR liquid hand dishwashing detergent (do
not use those containing lanolin or hand lotions) to one quart of water in a
clean spray bottle, or use a general purpose spot cleaner. For printed carpets, do not use
cleaning agents with a pH higher than 8. Spray lightly onto
the spot and blot repeatedly with white towels.
Rinse thoroughly by spraying with clean water, and then blot or
extract. Do not use too much detergent,
because the residue will contribute to rapid resoiling. A-1.
Either: apply a white vinegar
solution (one part white vinegar to one part water) to a white towel and blot
or spray onto spot. Continue as in “A,” or use a slightly acidic spotter
made for coffee, tea and other tannin stains rather than the detergent. A-2. Either: apply a solution of household ammonia (one
tablespoon of ammonia to one cup water) to a white towel and blot or spray onto
spot. Continue as in “A,” or use an
alkaline spotter made for removing blood and protein stains rather than the
detergent. Do not use on printed styles. B.
GREASE –
Blot as much as possible with white towels.
Apply a solvent designed for grease removal to a towel and blot.
Use sparingly and do not pour or spray directly on the carpet pile
as damage to the backing or adhesive underneath may result. Use the towels to transport the solvent to
the carpet. Repeat until no more color
transfers to the towel. Provide adequate
ventilation, and do not use flammable
solvents! Rinse thoroughly by
spraying with clean water, and then blot or extract. If needed, continue with procedures in “A.” C.
FREEZE
chewing gum and candle wax with ice or a commercially available product in an
aerosol can. Shatter with a blunt
object, and vacuum before the chips soften.
Follow up with solvent as in “B.” D.
RUST can be
removed in most cases with a 10% solution of oxalic acid. Stubborn cases require 5% hydrofluoric acid,
which is difficult to obtain and dangerous to use. Both should be used only by a trained
professional. cleaning When the
color of the carpet begins to look dull, it is time to clean the carpet. The traffic lanes will show this first. If the carpet is cleaned before it becomes
excessively soiled, the cleaning will be more successful and a much easier
task. The number one recommended method of
carpet cleaning is high-performance hot-water extraction, which research
indicates provides the best capability for cleaning. This system is commonly referred to as “steam
cleaning,” although no steam is actually generated. The process
consists of spraying a solution of water and cleaning agent into the pile and,
using a powerful vacuum, recovering the used solution and soil into a holding
tank. This can be done from a truck-mounted unit outside the facility with only
the hose and wand brought inside; or by a portable, self-contained machine
brought inside. Self-contained,
walk-behind machines are often employed where cleaning is done by in-house
maintenance staffs. Since these machines
cannot equal the performance of high-performance wand-type extractors, their
use should be supplemented by periodic cleaning with a wand-type
high-performance machine. Cleaning systems
using a rotating bonnet of terry cloth or other absorbent material attached to
a rotary floor polisher used to agitate the pile and pick up soil are NOT
recommended. These do no real extraction
of deep soil and may even damage the edges of some carpet tiles. It is
not a substitute for hot-water extraction.
Any
portable cleaning machine which continuously recycles the cleaning solution is
NOT recommended. Although large
particles are filtered out, soluble materials, including detergents and soluble
contaminants, are redistributed over the whole area. With repeated cleanings, these materials
become more concentrated and begin to cause rapid resoiling. Basic Guidelines For
In-House Maintenance If you
choose to maintain your carpet using in-house personnel, here are some
guidelines to follow. 1. Before hot-water extraction, thoroughly
vacuum the area to be cleaned to remove as much dry soil as possible. Use a pile lifter, if necessary, in
high-traffic areas. 2. Remove spots and stains. Pretreat the heavily
soiled areas and traffic-lanes with traffic-lane cleaner and wait the
recommended time before cleaning. Give the
cleaner time to do its job before beginning extraction. Treat a small area and
extract the liquid before the traffic lane cleaner dries. 3. On most commercial carpets, use a detergent with a pH less than 10,
preferably near 9, and with a minimum of nonsticky residue. For printed carpets, use a detergent solution
that has a pH between 6 and 8. It is important
to remove all the detergent you put into the carpet. Detergent residue continues to attract and
hold soil even after drying. Increasing
the amount of detergent beyond the recommended level does not increase cleaning
performance, but makes the complete removal of detergent more difficult. The use
of cleaning agents with optical brighteners is NOT recommended. 4. Avoid
overwetting the carpet. Prolonged
dampness may cause discoloration, promote growth of mildew and bacteria in the
carpet, or cause separation of the backing.
5. Do not use silicone-based anti-soil
treatments on . Anti-soil products formulated with
either DuPont Teflon® or 3M Scotchgard™ are recommended. 6.
Reduce drying time by using several fans or air movers to move air
across the carpet, in combination with a dehumidifier or air conditioner to
pull moisture out of the air. Carpet
should be completely dry within 12 hours or less. |
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© 1997 Corpland Contracting Limited